Capri (Campania)

Ever since ancient times, this luxuriant, saddle-shaped rock in the Bay of Naples has captured the world’s imagination as a place where dreams can be realized and life can become an earthly paradise.  Hopes and wishes notwithstanding, the island does have something special, perhaps generated by its sheer dramatic beauty, its crystal-clear waters and its lush vineyards and lemon and olive groves that seem to cover every available corner.  The mythic power of Capri runs far deeper and warrants more exploration that the quick package-tour tone it sometimes strikes.

Capri is a place to do as little or as much as you like. The four cafes in the main square are the place to be seen in the evenings after the deluge of day trippers have left. Celebrities can occasionally be found sipping drinks there. High end shops line the streets if you feel the need for retail therapy.

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• Walk Take one of the public footpaths which let you reach, for instance, the “Arco Naturale” and other beautiful sights which the large majority of tourists will only see from their boat trips around the island. Some of these paths are very steep and you need to walk up and down long stairs sometimes. The map you can buy for a small fee at the main tourist office in the harbor shows most of the footpaths. However, it is difficult to get lost on such a small island.

• Hike Nearly the entire perimeter of the island is accessible for hiking. Few people, except local fishers and hunters, take advantage of these beautiful natural trails. Several abandoned forts are found along the path and there are trails and paved descents that can take you all the way to the water’s edge. This is a great way to explore the natural beauty of the island when the day tripping tourists flood the more populous regions of the island. Bring plenty of water and comfortable shoes if you do hike, you may be a long distance from the nearest road or bus stop.

• Rent a motor scooter to tour the island. Gets you around much quicker than on foot, but still allows you to easily maneuver the winding roads. Beware of crazy bus drivers especially around corners!

• Take the chairlift ride from Anacapri up Monte Salaro, the views from the summit are incredible, and there’s some really pretty gardens and orchards underfoot on the way up the mountain. The ride takes 15 minutes each way, and you’ll want at least 30 minutes at the top. ‚¬6.5 round trip, ‚¬5 one way. Open daily in summer 9:30 to 5, last run down at 5:30, November to March last run down at 3:30

• Swim, in the Blue Grotto after 6:00pm when the boats stop, as many locals do; in any of the other Grottos in the island, at the Marina Piccola (resort-like beach), or at any of the natural beaches. Swimming in Grottos is only for experienced swimmers and is not for the faint-hearted, as tidal waves can frequently close and open the openings to the Grottos, and in the process, potentially injure a swimmer against the rocks when trying to enter or exit.

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1. Capri Town
   • Piazza Umberto I, known simply as “Piazzetta” (centre), is the town’s outdoor salon, filled to the brim with chic bars and restaurants.  Nighttime is when the true Capri denizens come out to play.
2. Marina Grande
   • Whether by ferry, hydrofoil or private yacht, virtually all visitors to the island arrive at this little port town.  It’s a colorful place, but the bustle is only skin-deep, in reality it’s just as laid back as the rest of Capri.
3. Arco Naturale
4. Blue Grotto
   • Grotta Azzurra - The Blue Grotto is a beautiful cave at the water’s edge with a tiny opening to the sea that opens and closes with the tide, used as a bath since the Roman times. The entrance is small and depending on the tide there is just enough space for only a small rowboat to get through. Dark at the entrance, one has to enter 20-30 yards and then turn around to view the beautiful sight of the light from the entrance flowing through the water lit turquoise from below by the sun. Hence the sight of the “Blue Grotto”. You’ll be amazed at the turquoise hues glimmering in the water and against the rocks. The grotto often closes due to tides and waves, and it may take a while for your boat to get in, with many other boats trying to do the same. It may also be advisable to check the tides beforehand to avoid disappointment. {slide=More…} The round trip boat from Marina Grande to outside the cavern costs ‚¬9, then ‚¬4.50 or higher for the rowboat to take you in through the tiny entrance, plus ‚¬4 admission to the cave a total of around ‚¬20, with a round trip of about 1 to 3 hours. Alternatively, one can take a bus to Anacapri, walking 100m (inquire locally), then taking another bus to the Grotta Azzurra, and then paying ‚¬9 for a rowman to take you in and out. This has the advantage of cutting on the cost from Marina Grande, as well as placing you near Anacapri where much else is to be seen. The grotto is open from 9:00 to one hour before sunset daily. If the grotto closes suddenly (hopefully while you are outside it), consider a ‚¬12 cruise around the magnificent Faraglioni Rocks instead. {/slide}
5. Anacapri & Punta Carena
6. Villa Jovis
   • Villa Jovis, the splendid residence of the Emperor Tiberius, start from Piazzetta Umberto I and turn into Via delle Botteghe, continuing straight on through Via Fuorlovado, Via Croce and, finally, Via Tiberio. After visiting the villa, you could dedicate some time to other attractions in the vicinity, such as the Church of Santa Maria del Soccorso, the Cave of Tiberius and the Lighthouse Tower.
7. Villa San Michele
8. Monte Solara
9. Marina Piccola
   • It’s located on the opposite end of the island from Marina Grande. You can walk, but the bus is probably easier. The Marina Piccolo is a quieter area which has two beach areas where you can swim or layout on the smooth rock beach.
10. Via Krupp & I Faraglioni

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capri

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Sunrise – If you take the early ferry from Naples (the one at 6.45 a.m), then as you travel to Capri, the sun rises over the mountains. The sky turns from deep violet to pink to orange to gold. It is an amazingly beautiful sight, certainly worth waking up at the ungodly hour!